Monday, April 11, 2011

Tips to landscape photography

Landscape photography is a genre which depicts the aesthetic value of nature, sometimes vast and unending, but other times microscopic. This style of photography is practiced by professionals and amateurs alike. Photographs typically capture the presence of nature and are often free of man-made obstructions. The prime subject will be the composition of nature.

The magic hour - Landscape photos are often defined by the quality of light they were taken in. Early in the morning or during late afternoons the light will be soft and the contrast will be less and the tones display a subtle colour palette of moody hues. The hours after dawn and before dusk are known as the ‘magic hours’.

Composition - Composition is the axis of an excellent landscape image. The rule of thirds play an important role in composing captivating imagery. Also it is important to choose the subject , object , background and foreground carefully. The entirety of the image must be given importance as well as the details in it. Look out for colour representation to bring in the impact of contrast and richness of the image.

Research and eye for detail - Research for best locations and angles to click. Also look for locations which are capable of narrating a story by itself. A map, a compass and a bit of trekking will always go along with landscape photography.

Polarising filters - Landscape photographers will have a circular polarising filter in their kit bag. There are many uses for filters like this, but for the landscape photographer the two key characteristics are their ability to cut out relections and glare from a scene and the increased colour intensity, saturation and contrast they create. A grey filter is a cheap alternative for polarizing filter. 

Depth of field - Landscape photographers desire an image that appears sharp throughout the scene, so that elements of foreground interest, such as a rock in a lake, look just as sharp as the distant horizon. This can be achieved relatively easily using the principles of depth of field, whereby the smaller an aperture you use, such as f/22, the greater the area both before and beyond the point of focus also appear to be sharp. This principle can be taken one step further with hyperfocal focusing. Generally, when you’re using small apertures you’ll need to compensate with slow shutter speeds, so a tripod is essential. 

Neutral Density graduated filterss - One of the great problems for landscape photographers is the difference in brightness between the sky and the land. While the human eye is capable of perceiving detail across this tonal range, a digital sensor isn’t capable of recording it. So ND Grads (neutral density graduated filters) were created and have been avidly used by landscape shooters ever since. Their gradual transition from clear to dark neutral density allows the photographer to balance the exposure between the sky and the land to make a more even exposure in which detail remains in both the highlight and shadow areas. 

Man and the landscape - Great landscape photography is not necessarily about hunting out the most picturesque scene, in the most wonderful light and at the most perfect time of day. Indeed, there are many aspects of the world’s landscape that are less glamorous, such as the effects of heavy farming, rapidly expanding suburbs and sprawling industrial wastelands, that can make a poignant subject for the concerned photographer. Take a look at the effects of man on the landscape near your home and use them as photographic subjects. 

RAW - To maximise on quality and also to allow you to edit your original images non-destructively, always shoot your landscapes in the RAW format. RAW images give the photographer more freedom over the creative output of the image.

Slow exposures - Slow exposures are used by landscape photographers, whether it’s to optimise depth of field with a small aperture or to create smooth and milky seas, a sturdy tripod is a must. To further minimise camera movement during the exposure consider using a cable release or your camera’s self-timer, as well as locking the mirror up. 

~ Hari Bhagirath Photography

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